14 January 2009
SB and I left the hotel in the dark and headed to the Potala Palace to do the Kora, joining the pilgrims that were out and about at this early hour.
The circuit runs around the base of the Palace. At the back of the Palace there are large sections of prayer wheels and also large burners for juniper branches. By the time we finished the first kora it was lighter and there was now a larger stream of pilgrims, so we did another kora to take some photos, calling an end to our walk after the 2nd kora and because were were frozen. Back towards the hotel there is an increase in military presence, particularly at intersections.
First up today is Drepung Monastery (founded 1416), which used to be the largest in the world and was also left relatively unscathed during the CR and currently houses about 600 monks. It was used by DL’s 2-4 all are entombed here. After the 4th built the PP and moved there. There was a constant stream of pilgrims so we joined the flow, the murals throughout the monastery are particularly beautiful and the sheer quantity of Buddha’s and other monastic statues, thangka’s and wall murals is literally gob-smacking and your head just spins. The sad thing is that most of the monasteries we have visited, behind the facades are in need of restoration or other works to stop them falling into disrepair. You can only imagine what this monastery would be like with 10,000 monks and a staff of at least 20,000 to just work the lands to support the Monastery. After leaving the Ganden Palace we ventured into the monastic kitchen which was medieval with huge cauldrons next to modern rice cookers. We went into the main assembly hall which is so atmospheric with 180 columns and thangkas hanging everywhere. We wandered back to the car for our next monastery.
Next up is Sera Monastery (founded 1419). Straight away this monastery was busier than any so far with large buses of pilgrims and lots of stalls. We headed up to the monastery and got our tickets. The monastery is really a town with lots of sections and used to be famous for its debating monks, but they have recently stopped as they don’t see any point continuing. We walked to the Sera Me College and then saw the line, it was huge. As usual we pushed our way to the front – Buddhism here is quite physical and even the oldest lady will push you out of the way. We got to a gate where the way forward was jammed with pilgrims, so we climbed over a side gate and headed through the back way and made it through to the front of the queue.
We walked around the main hall and then it happened – a chapel women can’t visit, so even Buddhists are perpetuating the sexist myth that men are better! We also visited the Sera Ngagpa College which is meant to be the oldest structure at Sera. We then quickly entered the Sogchen main assembly hall to be met with the monks chanting which was just magical and almost brought you to tears – we were allowed to film and record the monks so it was a real honour. The room is huge with many thangkas and it has 3 chapels at the back. We visited one chapel where you make a wish and the monk pushes a stick to your head – hope mine comes true.
So after listening to the monks we ventured back to the car tired and hungry. We were dropped off near our hotel and headed out to a restaurant overlooking Barkhor Square. From our window we saw a massive western tour group complete with a lady at the front with a large sign – what a nightmare. We walked back around the Barkhor Circuit, doing a bit of shopping and taking photos of the very colourful locals.
Back at the hotel we got a phone call to say there was a problem and we had to head to Shigatse tomorrow to try and get our visa extended – bugger.