8 January 2009
Got up early (0445) and by the time we finally got downstairs our guide (Ram) and our driver were there to collect us. So we loaded up the warmest gear we had and headed off. The ride was scenic and through valleys and gorges with the dawn coming through the mist. We stopped for breakfast in a Nepali breakfast of curry and puri’s and a very very very sweet tea.
As we got closer to the border the number of trucks expanded exponentially. We got dropped off at the Nepalese border where we cleared customs/immigration by the time I had a wee, amazingly fast – obviously they weren’t interested in matching my passport to me.
We then continued walking through several gates – we are the only Westerners here. We finally made it onto the Friendship Bridge and crossed to the Chinese side after my bag was searched by a guard who didn’t have a sense of humour, one of the Nepalese locals explained to him we were from Australia and he then let us through. We then entered the very flash and super organise customs/immigration centre on the Chinese side, where both our bags were now searched. Meanwhile people were unpacking trucks and hauling the goats through the immigration line. We had our own immigration line where all our papers were seriously scrutinized then Ram was allowed to get our Tibetan guide who had even more paperwork for the Chinese officials to check, my passport scanned and processed but SB’s wouldn’t so the lady officer rushed off somewhere and did something and finally all was well and our documents stamped, we then made it through customs with only another bag scan and we were through the doors into Tibet.
We said goodbye to Ram and headed off with our new guide (Lobsang) and driver (Chambo). We drove into Zhandmu and had tea in a local tea shop where we changed some larger Yuan to smaller notes. We then went next door and had lunch of thukpa (basically noodles and vegetables in a soup). We then talked about the itinerary and decided to drive through to Tingri tonight which will give us more time at Everest tomorrow and more time in Lhasa.
So we jumped in the LandCruiser and started a phenomenal climb over a road that was good and in some places really bad in others. We were surrounded by pine forests and lots and lots of thick ice, making the roads very slippery – always great when you are driving up a cliff. In a short distance we arrived in Nyalam which was meant to be our stop for the night, but we only filled up with fuel before hitting a dirt like road track and the scenery changed to glacial scree, no trees and very sparsely populated areas. Although there were yaks, sheep and fields which apparently grow wheat and barley as well as radish and potatoes.
We stopped at La Lungla Pass (4910m) and then Yakri Shong Pass (5050m) just to think we started the day at 1400m in Kathmandu.
The road continued on bumpy and dusty, passing some locals that were rugged up, again we emphasize how cold it is expected to get.
We finally arrived in Tingri just before sunset and walked into a lodge straight out of the movies. There were benches all around a central fire which kept hot water constantly coming. Obviously we are the highlight and talking point of the locals, they were just as amazing to us all wearing lots of fantastic beards in their hair and the most fantastic hats. The women as usual worked tirelessly keepng them fed and watered.
We went to our room and did the usual bed shift and they kept giving us more and more blankets and duvets, apparently we will need them in addition to our sleeping bags. We got out our things for tomorrow and then ventured to the toilet – well how do I explain that. There is a room, one for boys and one for girls, these are closed off by a half height door. The toilet is two planks of wood with a gap, luckily it is so cold you can’t smell anything. SB had the bad experience of his toilet paper blowing back at him – gross.
We headed back to the dining area that was toasty and warm with our dinner ready – thukpa again. Luckily by now the locals had moved on so it was quiet and we could eat wthout anybody staring at us. After dinner we had a plate of roasted nuts before venturing back to the freezing room and trying not to sufficate under the pile of blankets.