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2008/2009 Nepal & India

Day 20: Phedi (4450m) to Muktinath (3800m), including the Thorang La Pass (5416m)

19 December 2008

After a rude morning wake-up call at 4am, we quickly packed and rugged up in nearly all the layers we could find and had a light breakfast at 4:30am and left the lodge at 5am.  It was still really dark so we had to start the climb with our headlamps on, making a very strange sight with all the headlamps going up the mountain.

We started walking uphill, uphill and more uphill in what seemed to be a never ending trail uphill.  It was also freezing, especially with the wind chill factor, so our sweat turned to ice on us, hmm a nice feeling, not.

The altitude was not too much of a problem as we have been acclimatising for the last week or so going up slowly.

The climb was hoendous and never seemed to end, everytime I thought we were close to the top, it still seemed so far away.  The dawn finally started to come over the stupendous mountains, although unfortunately I did not fully appreciate it as I was totally knackered and the climb seemed to just continue tortously and I began to think that I wouldn’t make it – this is where Scott decided that he was going to drag me up there no matter what.

It started to get even colder and our water bottles and camel packs turned to ice.  We stopped a couple of times for a longer break and trying to catching my breath.  Scott was either pushing me or dragging me by that stage which can’t have made it easy for him, but he was not going to give up.

Finally at9:15am we reached the Thorung La Pass at 5416m and had a couple of photos taken.  The marker for the highest point on the pass is just surrounded by millions of prayer flags.  I can’t believe I made it, it is the hardest thing I have ever done and it is hard to explain the emotions that you feel, so after a few tears and before we froze, we started on the track down the otherside of the pass as our destionation (Muktinath) is at 3800m, so we had a long way to go.

Thorang La (5416m ASL) and it's smiles all round.  All we needed was champagne (or another drink that wouldn't freeze!)
Thorang La (5416m ASL) and it

Unfortunately the walk down was absolutely bone jarring and rocky and it took over 2 hours just to reach the teahouse for a rest and drink.  The walk was almost as exhausting as the walk up.  After a well deserved drink at the teahouse, we started on yet another downhill slog to Muktinath which is a monastery town and by the time we got to the hotel I was absolutely exhausted and jumped into a hot shower to try and ease some of the aching muscles.

We had some lunch and then I had a short walk around the town centre with Miranda and Emily, not that there was a lot to see.

WE all had an early dinner and retired to a very early night fter our mammoth walk for the day.  I am still in amazement that I did it, SB of course wants to do it again – he is not picking next years holiday activities that is for sure.

That night, nature put on a spectacular sunset to celebrate our success in crossing the La and signalled the change in the weather
That night, nature put on a spectacular sunset to celebrate our success in crossing the La and signalled the change in the weather